Maha Kumbh 2013

"One single day of devotion is worth more than thousand years of Worldly life" - Anonymous

Maha Kumbh Mela, is the largest known human congregation in this universe. Kumbh happens every 3 years in either of these places- Allahabad(Prayag), Haridwar, Ujjain and Nasik while the Maha Kumbh happens once every 12 years. 2013 Maha Kumbh happened in the mela grounds of Allahabad, a city next to the holy confluence of the three sacred rivers: Ganga, Yamuna and mystified Saraswati (known to run underground these days). As per Hindu mythology, it is believed that taking a ceremonial dip in the confluence during the festival washes away all your sins, leading to Salvation or Moksha. 

What a shortcut! I had not imagined how serious the whole affair was until I stepped in Allahabad. We found something even more interesting - we were at a special Maha Kumbh, a Kumbh that comes every 144 years, after twelve Purna Kumbhs. So one thing was clear, none in my next generation is going to witness this again!

We were travelling with a­­­ group of photographers. Though Mohit and I, both were set with our cameras to capture the moments, our main purpose was to just go with the flow. Our itinerary included one of the royal or shahi snan(Basant Panchmi Snan) days, a day when more than 30 million were expected. It was the last of the three shahi snans (15^th Feb). After hearing the news of the stampede that happened a couple of days before, I had imagined myself amidst a sea of people pushing and pulling taking you with their flow.  Indeed it was a huge mass of humanity but it was peaceful, devotees chanting and walking, mostly barefoot, towards the confluence.

We reached Kumbh mela grounds on 14^th Feb morning, a day before the royal snan. On reaching the mela grounds, we found that it was a huge ground converted to a temporary encampment with all kinds of tents, in clusters, pitched by different religious groups. There were hotels outside mela grounds as well, however one must live in the mela ground to witness and soak in the atmosphere. There was a limit to what tents could accommodate. So there were people cooking and residing at every corner. 

People cooking in mela grounds

 

People people everywhere...

ISKON Campus in mela grounds

There were 13 Akharas congregated to take a dip. Akharas generally refer to the religious sects. The royal snans are meant to be initiated by the Akharas before being opened for general public. We were putting up in ISKON campus tents, probably the most comfortable ones. They were hygienic and the food at the bhandaras was really nice. The space was at a premium, and hence we were 5 people putting up in a tent. It had an attached open roof bathroom and a toilet. It was an experience in itself, especially if it rained J

­­­After lunch, we headed towards the confluence, the main bathing area where there were around 30 million people expected the next day. We wanted to see the place and make a plan for the next day. 

Ghat a day before the royal snan

Devotees taking ceremonial dips in the ghat before the main snan day

We went to prayag during the sunset and experienced the charm of being in the crowd with so much happening around. There was security all around. The most enticing thing was the unending announcements happening on lost and found. The announcements varied from loss of wallet, car keys to family members. 



Women drying their sarees after the dip

Women drying clothes in nearly empty mela grounds a day before

Devotees entering grounds a day before

Next day we woke up at 4 and headed towards the confluence at around 4:30. As we stepped out of the ISKON campus, we witnessed something unbelievable. There were countless people, all walking in the same direction, some with their luggage on their head. With time, the crowd just swelled. 

Soon, the various Naga Sadhus Akharas started lining up for the royal snan. Naga Sadhus are followers of the Shiva sect. With their distinguishable features - long knotted hair and naked body smeared with ashes - you just can't miss them. Naga Sadhus are categorized into Akharas,  some of the prominent being Sanyasi, Bajrangi, Juna. With the Chants of Har Har Mahadev, the atmosphere was electric and the energy levels high

 These huge Akhara groups were given bathing slots and they were moving in that order towards the confluence. Photography by general public was prohibited in the main snan area. We managed to get into the press lane and moved amidst these Akharas.

One of the devotees

The excitement towards the ghats

Sadhus running towards the ghat to perform the ceremonial dip

Royal snan ghat area filled with Sadhus

Ghat area

On the other end of this royal snan areas was general public snan area which was separated with fencing and police from the royal snan area. Once the royal snan was done by the sadhus, it was also opened for general public. We had never ever witnessed such exhilaration amongst such masses. It was filled with faith, hope and believe in God.

The religious group marching towards the ghats

General public waiting around the royal snan area

Despites some 30 million people in one ground, everything was so well managed. We had never seen such massive crowd management done so well. There were continuous lost and found announcements still going on. Next day, we were amazed to see the mela grounds empty again. One couldn't believe that on the previous day, millions landed here.

Nearly empty grounds on the next day of the royal snan

Though I am not a believer of taking snan to wash sins. However seeing such massive faith, something dragged me to the banks of the river where I took a dip as well (despite the fact that it was raining heavily). I still do not know what kind of satisfaction it was. 

This trip was a lifetime experience. I am not too sure if I would go to Kumbh again, but I must say, if one wants to see faith, one must go and experience it.